秋のケベック州(カナダ)③:/旧跡を散策しながら、ケベックの特殊な歴史を想うQuebec in Autumn (Canada)③: While strolling through the historic sites, I reflect on Quebec’s unique history
A Trip to the Suburbs of Quebec City
On the second day in Quebec City, before exploring the historic sites in the city, we visited Montmorency Falls in the suburbs. Then, we traveled along the oldest public road in North America, known as ‘Avenue Royale,’ to reach the Basilica of Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré.
(English text continues to the latter half of the page)
ケベックシティ郊外へ遠足
ケベックシティ2日目は市内の史跡を訪ねる前に、郊外のモンモランシー(Montmorency)滝を訪ね、さらに「王の道(Avenue Royale)」と呼ばれる北米最古の公道を通ってサンタンヌ・ド・ボープレ大聖堂(Basilique Ste-Anne-de-Beaupre)へ。
まずはケベックシティ市民の憩いの場としてお馴染みのモンモランシー滝。セントローレンス川に沿った国道の前に突然広がる光景に息を吞む。ゴンドラや遊歩道などがしっかりと整備されており、ケベックシティ市民には長年にわたるハイキングの場なんだと感じた。
インフォメーションセンターからゴンドラで滝の上部に登り、そこから遊歩道を歩いてセンターまで降りてくる。ちょうど1時間程度の行程だ。遊歩道では若干の紅葉も見られたものの、やはり盛りには程遠い。途中にはジップラインの設備やキヨスクの建物もあったが、営業はすでに休止していて、バカンスシーズンはほぼ終わりみたいだ。
モンモランシー滝に別れを告げて、「王の道」と呼ばれる国道を20分ほど走ると大聖堂を擁する街サンタンヌ・ド・ボープレに着く。
サンタンヌ・ド・ボープレ大聖堂は北米カトリックの三大巡礼地の一つ。特に病気や障害を抱えた信者の巡礼地として知られ、柱の一つには足に障害を抱えた人々が願いを込めて納めた松葉杖が多く公開されている(上写真4枚目)。実は同じような松葉杖の納め物はフランスのルルドの泉でも見られるが、これはあくまで願をかけた時に納めるもので、一部で喧伝されているように「願をかけて足が治って歩けるようになった信者が松葉杖を置いていった」わけではない。伝説の始まりは1658年に初めて聖堂の建設が始まった時に、脊柱側彎症で松葉杖無しで歩けなかった信者が工事に参加した途端に快癒したというものだそうだ。この話が北米の信者の間で急速に広まり、障害を抱えた多くの信者が巡礼で訪れる地になった。現在のゴシック様式の聖堂は1923年に建造されている。また守護聖人は聖アンヌで、彼女の指と手首の骨が納められているそうだ。訪れた日がちょうど日曜日だったため会堂では礼拝が行われており、この日ばかりは観光客のための大聖堂ではなく、教会本来の姿に戻っていたかのようだった。
大聖堂の周りで昼食を食べようと思ったけど、どうもピンとくるところが見つからず、車で街の裏通りを走っているとなかなかしゃれた外観のオーベルジュがあり、ここに入ってみることに。
入ってみるとかなり大きなスペースで広大な庭がベランダの向こうに広がっている。メニューはビュッフェスタイル一択で、大きなテーブルに大皿が並んでいる。この数々の料理がまたすべて美味い!特にデザートは言うことなし!あまりお腹が空いていないことが悔しいほどに、レベルの高い料理ばかりだった。入ってみて分かったことは、ほぼ満員のこのレストランの客は子供までいずれも正装しており、どうも先ほどの教会で礼拝をした帰りのサンデーランチのようだ。思いがけず平和な村の暮らしの一部を経験できた午後になった。
ケベックシティの史跡からユニークな歴史を想う
午後はケベックシティに戻り、アブラハム平原を中心に史跡と博物館を巡ることに。アブラハム平原はかつて1759年にフレンチ・インディアン戦争が戦われたところ。1534年からフランス人勢力は現在のケベック州周辺に入植を試みており、やがて毛皮、特に簡単に捕れるビーバーの加工品がヨーロッパで大流行するなどして重要な交易品となっていく。1603年にはフランス人による植民地ヌーベルフランスが形作られた。ただイギリスも同じ時期から北米への植民、興業に力を入れており次第に両国の対立が鮮明となっていく。1754年にはアメリカ合衆国初代大統領ジョージ・ワシントンがヌーベルフランスを攻撃し、戦争は本格化、1759年にその決戦の場となったのがアブラハム平原。ここでイギリス軍がフランス陣営を破り、ヌーベルフランスはイギリスの統治下に置かれることになった。北米植民地戦争の中でも、大きな転換点となる戦いがここケベックシティで行われた。
近代のケベックシティはカソリック教会からの反発などで工業化の波に乗り遅れ、一時は忘れられた都市とも言われた。またイギリスやアメリカの脅威の中でフランス語を日常語とする住民は一段低いレベルのように扱われていたことも事実。しかし第二次大戦後に起こった「静かなる革命」などを経て、独自の教育制度の浸透と経済政策の奏功でケベック州は力を取り戻し、同時に抑圧されていたフランスナショナリズムもその存在感を高めていった。1977年には「フランス語憲章」が採択されて、公共の表示物でフランス語の優位的割合を具体的に定めるなど、「フランス語話者」としての誇りを取り戻す制度が確立しているが、自分が旅をしていて感じたのは、住民のほとんどは自在にアクセントのない英語を話し、フランス語ができなくてもまったく旅に支障はない。ところどころで交通標識がフランス語だけであるのには閉口したが、スマホの自動翻訳でほぼ問題なく意味は分かる。
歴史博物館の中にあった晒し台、おそらく捕虜の拘束に使ったものか。
前日に巡った旧市街に隣接した要塞シタデル、ちょっと函館の五稜郭を思わせるフォルム。石垣の間のスペースでは子供たちが、多分18世紀の服装で何かのパフォーマンスの練習をしていました。
明日はケベックシティを離れ、モントリオールに戻ります。
A Trip to the Suburbs of Quebec City
On the second day in Quebec City, before exploring the historic sites in the city, we visited Montmorency Falls in the suburbs. Then, we traveled along the oldest public road in North America, known as ‘Avenue Royale,’ to reach the Basilica of Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré.
First, the Montmorency Falls, a well-known relaxation spot for the citizens of Quebec City. The breathtaking sight suddenly opens up in front of the highway along the St. Lawrence River. With well-maintained facilities such as gondolas and walking trails, it felt like a long-standing hiking destination for the people of Quebec City.
From the information center, take the gondola up to the top of the falls and then walk down the trail back to the center. It’s about an hour-long journey. While some autumn leaves could be seen along the trail, it was still far from the peak season. Along the way, there were facilities like a zipline and kiosk buildings, but they were already closed, suggesting that the vacation season was mostly over.
After bidding farewell to Montmorency Falls and driving for about 20 minutes along the highway known as the ‘King’s Road,’ you arrive at the town of Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré, home to a grand basilica.
The Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré Basilica is one of the three major Catholic pilgrimage sites in North America. It is particularly known as a pilgrimage destination for believers with illnesses or disabilities. One of the pillars displays numerous crutches left by people with leg disabilities as offerings of their prayers (see the fourth photo above). Similar offerings of crutches can also be seen at the Sanctuary of Lourdes in France. However, contrary to some claims, these crutches are not left by believers whose legs were healed and who could walk again after praying. Instead, they are placed as part of their act of devotion.
The legend begins in 1658 when the first chapel was built. It is said that a believer suffering from scoliosis, who could not walk without crutches, joined the construction and was miraculously cured. This story spread rapidly among North American believers, making the site a popular pilgrimage destination for many with disabilities. The current Gothic-style basilica was constructed in 1923. The patron saint is Saint Anne, whose finger and wrist bones are enshrined here.
As it happened to be a Sunday when I visited, a worship service was being held in the chapel. For this day, the basilica seemed to have returned to its original role as a church rather than a tourist destination.
I had planned to have lunch somewhere around the basilica, but nothing quite caught my eye. While driving through the town’s backstreets, I came across a rather stylish-looking auberge and decided to give it a try.
Upon entering, I found a surprisingly spacious area with a vast garden stretching beyond the veranda. The menu offered only a buffet style, with large plates of food laid out on big tables. Every single dish was absolutely delicious! The desserts, in particular, were exceptional. I regretted not being hungrier because the food was of such high quality.
As I observed, I realized that the restaurant was almost full, and every guest, including children, was dressed formally. It seemed they had just come from the church service and were enjoying their Sunday lunch. Unexpectedly, it turned into an afternoon where I got to experience a glimpse of peaceful village life.
Reflecting on Unique History Through Quebec City’s Historical Sites
In the afternoon, I returned to Quebec City to explore the historical sites and museums, focusing on the Plains of Abraham. This location was the battleground of the French and Indian War in 1759. Since 1534, the French had been attempting to establish settlements in the area around present-day Quebec, and over time, fur—especially beaver pelts, which were easy to obtain—became a highly sought-after trade commodity in Europe. By 1603, the French colony of New France had taken shape. However, during the same period, the British were also intensifying their colonization and industrial efforts in North America, leading to escalating conflicts between the two nations.
In 1754, George Washington, the future first president of the United States, launched an attack on New France, marking the start of a full-scale war. The decisive battle of this conflict took place in 1759 on the Plains of Abraham, where the British forces defeated the French. This led to New France coming under British rule. The battle in Quebec City was a major turning point in the colonial wars of North America.
In the modern era, Quebec City lagged behind the wave of industrialization, partly due to resistance from the Catholic Church, and was at one point considered a forgotten city. Additionally, French-speaking residents were often treated as second-class citizens under the dominance of British and American powers. However, through events like the “Quiet Revolution” after World War II, Quebec began to regain its strength. The development of its own education system and economic policies contributed to its revival, and suppressed French nationalism started to gain prominence.
In 1977, the “Charter of the French Language” was adopted, establishing policies to ensure the dominance of French, such as requiring public signs to prioritize French. These efforts aimed to restore pride in being French speakers. During my travels, I observed that most residents spoke fluent, accent-free English, and the lack of French skills posed no hindrance to my journey. The only inconvenience I encountered was traffic signs being exclusively in French, but smartphone translation tools easily bridged that gap.
Inside the history museum, there was a pillory—likely used for restraining prisoners.
The Citadel, a fortress adjacent to the old town that I visited the previous day, has a shape somewhat reminiscent of Goryokaku in Hakodate. In the spaces between the stone walls, children, likely dressed in 18th-century attire, were practicing for some kind of performance.
Tomorrow, I will leave Quebec City and return to Montreal.