フィリピン遠征①/Philippines Expedition①
戒厳令下の島へ出発
9月中旬の3連休を利用して、ダバオ（フィリピン、ミンダナオ島）に9泊10日の合気道遠征に出かけました。学生時代からの友人が大手商社の駐在員時代に立ち上げた現地の道場に指導と昇段審査に年1回訪問するイベントです。もう25年も続いているイベントですが、今年は自分も何とか休暇がとれたので初めて同行。今回は特別に合気道のほか、自分が居合のクラスも担当することになりました。外国の道場で合気道はよくやっているものの、フィリピンは初めて。どちらかと言うと自分の外国経験は欧米が中心で、アジアではこれまでにソウル（韓国）とバリ（インドネシア）しか行ったことがありません。
しかもダバオのあるミンダナオ島は戦後最長という民族内戦に、最近ではイスラム国勢力が加わって泥沼の戦闘状態にあるところ。抵抗勢力が拠点として住民を人質に残虐行為の続いている島の西側は外務省指定の「渡航危険度3（渡航中止勧告）」に指定されています。ドゥテルテ大統領の出身地であるダバオ市はその中でも安全とはされていますが、出発直前に徹底的な抵抗勢力掃討作戦のためミンダナオ島全土に戒厳令が敷かれてしまいました。さすがに戒厳令下の土地に降り立つのは初めての経験です。しかし毎年日本人師範代チームが来るのを待ってくれている現地の人間に、「今年は危なそうだから行かない」なんてことは言えるわけがない、高段者を中心に5人編成で今年もダバオ遠征に出発しました。
Leaving for the Island under Martial Law
We left Japan for Davao city, Mindanao Philippines, in the middle of September. It was Aikido workshop program of 10 days. My friend from college days had established Aikido Dojo (school) in Davao while he stayed there as a representative of Japanese major trading firm. And even after he left Philippines the group of expertise from Japan visit Davao every year for training and promotion examinations. I join them this year for the first time as I could luckily take holidays. This year I take the class of Iaido except Aikido. I often play Aikido in foreign Dojo but I mostly visit America and European countries and have seldom visited Asian countries. The adventure has begun.
Mindanao island where Davao city is located was still in the mid of the longest ethnic civil war and Islamic State forces have invaded which makes the conflict extremely complicated and cruel. Japanese Ministry of foreign affairs nominates western part of the island as Travel risk 3 (Travel ban). Davao city, home of the president Duterte, was believed to be isolated from danger but shortly before our visit Martial law was proclaimed on whole island due to thorough mop up operation. Off course this was my first experience to land on the ground under Martial law. However people are waiting for the team from Japan. Who can say “Hey, your place looks quite risky this time. Let’s skip this year”? We, team of 5, have left for Davao expedition like this.
(English text continues to the latter half of the page)
土曜の朝一で成田を出発し、経由地のマニラ空港に到着、生れて初めてのフィリピン上陸です。
初めての国に降り立った時には、まず物価水準の目安をつける習慣があります。マニラ空港の出発ゲートに合ったランチショップ、チーズバーガーとサンドウィッチがそれぞれ85ペソ（約170円）、空港内が割高なことを考えれば食品の物価は日本の1/3といったところか。
ようやくダバオ空港に到着。ここで現地道場のOさんが車で迎えに来てくれています。かつて日本で稽古していたJさんとも7-8年ぶりに再会。この日はすでに夕方だったため、ホテルにチェックインして、近所の中華系のお店で夕食を食べて就寝。
宿泊先はホテルマルコポーロ、けっこうな高級ホテルです。
驚いたのはそのセキュリティ体制、ホテルのゲートでまずは車の中をチェック、横には自動小銃を抱えたガードマンが控えています。徒歩で入館する場合にはバッグの中をしっかりチェックされます。さらにゲートを通って20mでホテルエントランス、ここでもバッグのチェックと、金属探知機の通過、ボディチェックが必須。確かに激しい紛争が続くミンダナオ島の中で、ダバオ市だけはセーフティスポットとして安全が保たれていますが（とは言え、前年にはホテルのすぐ目の前の屋台街で爆発テロがあり犠牲者も出ています）、ここまでセキュリティを徹底してのことなのか、と妙に納得しながらも釈然としないものも感じました。
稽古の開始と道場生たちとの出会い
翌日曜日朝から早速稽古の開始。1週間借り受けた道場は上の写真の「Brokenshire」という施設の体育館、病院と医療関係の学校の複合施設のようです。さすがに畳はないので、白いマットを敷いた上で稽古を行います。
道場の正面には大先生（おうせんせい、合気道の植芝盛平開祖）に並んで、我々が師事してきた（故）柴田晃一先生八段の写真も飾られています。年に一度のイベントに向けた入念な準備に驚嘆。
日本の道場でもよく見かける木剣と杖のラックですが、よく見ると明らかに手作り！恐らくネットの中で写真を見つけて自作したものかもしれませんが、日本から遠く離れた南国でこうしたものを見ることにちょっと感動。
稽古の写真を無作為に並べてみました。まったくの初心者から三段まで様々なレベルの道場生がいます。有段者はみなこの道場で年1回の昇段審査を経て昇段しています。誰もが非常に真面目に合気道に取り組んでおり、この年に一度の指導・稽古の後は有段者を中心に動画を見ながら1年間稽古を続けるわけです。日本で稽古するよりもはるかにハンデを背負いながら、柴田先生本来の合気道の動きはむしろ日本よりもこの地で正確に語り伝えられているのではないか、とも感じました。
えっ！こんなものを彫り込んでしまったら、一生合気道から逃げられないぞ！
しかし参ったのが、現地の暑さ！稽古の後に送ってもらった車の中の温度計。すでに40℃超え！これまでの稽古で道着が汗でびしょ濡れということはよくありましたが、袴と帯がぐしょ濡れと言うのは初めての経験。稽古時間は午前と夜で炎天下の午後は避けていましたが、自分はすっかりエアコンに毒されて暑さに弱い体質になってしまったので、さすがに3日目の晩に調子を崩して道場の舞台裏で寝かせてもらいました。これも熱帯地域の洗礼か。
居合道クラス－映像が残っていない！
自分が教えることになった居合クラスでは、無双直伝英進流の正座の型を中心に教えました。柴田先生の合気道では「合気刀法」という稽古もありましたので、フィリピンの道場にも居合刀が数本置いてあります。ただ居合の動き全体の作法などはしっかり習ったことがないので、今回のクラスになりました。当初は午前の朝一だけ行う予定だったのですが、思いのほか好評で、道場生からの希望で結局朝と夜の毎日2回ずつ行うことになりました。やはり刀を格好よく振ることに対して興味の強い人間が多かったようです。
大変人気のあった居合のクラスですが、今ふと気づいたのは、写真も動画もほとんど自分のスマホに残っていない！そりゃあ当たり前でずっと前に立って教えていたらあっという間に1時間ほどが経過していて、写真なんか撮ってる余裕がない！他の方から後日いただいた「納刀」の1場面だけ下に貼っておきます。
（フィリピン遠征②に続く）
Leaving for the Island under Martial Law
We left Japan for Davao city, Mindanao Philippines, in the middle of September. It was Aikido workshop program of 10 days. My friend from college days had established Aikido Dojo (school) in Davao while he stayed there as a representative of Japanese major trading firm. And even after he left Philippines the group of expertise from Japan visit Davao every year for training and promotion examinations. I join them this year for the first time as I could luckily take holidays. This year I take the class of Iaido except Aikido. I often play Aikido in foreign Dojo but I mostly visit America and European countries and have seldom visited Asian countries. The adventure has begun.
Mindanao island where Davao city is located was still in the mid of the longest ethnic civil war and Islamic State forces have invaded which makes the conflict extremely complicated and cruel. Japanese Ministry of foreign affairs nominates western part of the island as Travel risk 3 (Travel ban). Davao city, home of the president Duterte, was believed to be isolated from danger but shortly before our visit Martial law was proclaimed on whole island due to thorough mop up operation. Off course this was my first experience to land on the ground under Martial law. However people are waiting for the team from Japan. Who can say “Hey, your place looks quite risky this time. Let’s skip this year”? We, team of 5, have left for Davao expedition like this.
We took early Saturday morning flight and arrived Manila Airport for transit. I have landed on Philippines for the first time.
I make it a rule to check the price level of the country when I arrive in foreign countries. This is Lunch shop at departure gates of Manila Airport. Cheese burger and Sandwich cost 85 Peso each (≒\170). In view of expensive prices in airports, food prices could be around 1/3 of that of Japan.
Finally we arrived in Davao Airport. Mr. O was there to pick up us by car and I saw Mr. J again for the first time in these 7-8 years.
We stayed in Hotel Marco Polo. Pretty high rank hotel.
I have surprised with its severe security control. At the gate visitors must accept baggage check. Security guard is armed with automatic rifle. And again they must have security check, metal sensor, and body check at the entrance of the Hotel. It is true that Davao is secured with safety apart from other parts of the island. (Nevertheless bomb terrorism happened in the food wagon town just in front of the Hotel) Is it thanks to this level of securities control? I couldn’t feel satisfied while I understood that it is enevitable.
Starting of training and encounters with local people
On Sunday morning we started training. The place was “Brokenshire” which looks like complex facility of Hospital and medical schools. There were no Tatamis (Japanese traditional floor mat) so we do training on white mats (for wrestling?)
In front of the floor photo of Ohsensei (Aikido Founder Mr. Morihei Ueshiba was placed as well as our sensei, (The late) Koichi Shibata 8 dans. I was impressed with thoughtful preparation ahead of annual event.
We often see this sought of wood sword, Jo (stick weapon) rack in Japan but it is handmade! Maybe somebody manufactured this from the photos in Japan. This looks quite nice!
I posted photos during the training at random. Their levels are differentiated from complete beginners to 3 dan. They have passed annual promotion exams at this place. All the people are facing Aikido quite seriously and after this annual workshop they train themselves with videos during the workshop. Although they are handicapped compared with Japanese local people, I felt the most essential something of “Shibata Aikido” is inherited among them rather than Japan.
Waoh, this is the tattoo of “Aikido (in Chinese characters)”! You can never evacuate from this for whole life!
Take a look on the temperature, beyond 40℃！My Dogi (wear) often get wet with sweat, but I had never experienced Hakama* and Obi got soaking wet. Training time was morning session and evening session to avoid the afternoon heat. But I had been so intoxicated with Airconditioned life that I broke my condition at 3rd day. This could be an initiation of tropical heat.
The class of Iaido-No pictures remain!
In the Iaido class I managed I taught mainly Katas of Seiza style of Muso Jikiden Eishinryu. In Davao Dojo there are several mock swords as Shibata Aikido includes “Aiki Toho” which utilizes swords. However nobody had ever learned orthodox manner and styles to swing sword, which led to this Iaido class. In initial plan Iaido class should take place only in the morning, but fortunately people liked this class and the class took place every morning and evening sessions. It is attractive to learn how to handle swords cool.
Although Iaido class has become popular, I now noticed that I can’t find any pictures of the class now. It is the nature of things. When I am concentrated with teaching then the time flies so fast and I couldn’t afford to take any photos. I post just one picture which other guy gave me afterwards. It is the moment of “Nohtoh” (installing the sword into Sheath) .
(Continues to Philippines expedition ②)