越後湯沢拠点旅：日本の埋もれた才能、日本のミケランジェロ、石川雲蝶/Enjoying Echigo Yuzawa through a year: Buried talent in Japan, Isikawa Uncho “Michelangelo of Japan”
さて、スキーシーズン真っ最中ですが、今日は今季最大寒波の襲来と言うことでスキーを早々に諦めて、魚沼地域に残る石川雲蝶（1814～1883）の作品を巡ることにしました。石川雲蝶と言って分かる人はどのくらいいるんでしょうか。幕末の江戸は雑司が谷に生まれた石川雲蝶（本名：石川安兵衛）は彫物師として名を挙げ、その後、越後三条の本成寺修復のため越後に入り、そのまま越後に終生留まりこの地に多くの作品を残しています。まずは彼の代表作をいくつか見ていきましょう。
Although it was peak season of ski, I gave up skiing early this morning due to heavy blizzard, and I decided to visit temples having works of Ishikawa Uncho (1814～1883). How many people know about him? He was a sculpture artisan who was born in Zoushigaya, Edo (former Tokyo) at last period of Edo era (1868 is Meiji Restoration and “Samurai government” was over). Ishikawa Uncho (real name: Ishikawa Yasubei) established his status as an artisan and he was invited to the Honjouji temple in Sanjo, Niigata, to restore temple house and he stayed in Niigata even after the restoration till he died. He left many works in Niigata area.
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西福寺開山堂（魚沼市大浦）
当寺は関越自動車道の大和PAから車で5分程度の距離。
これが開山堂の全景。豪雪地帯だけに茅葺屋根の建物を鉄骨の頑丈な屋根で覆っています。大雪の日のこの光景は不思議と心に残るものがあります。
寺の中は撮影禁止ですので、ここから先はお寺の許可を得たうえでお寺と観光協会のHPから写真を転載させていただきます。
いきなり代表作を出してしまいました。先ほど外観を見せた開山堂の天井に描かれた『道元禅師猛虎調伏図』です。絵ではありません。木を彫り出してレリーフのように形作る「透かし彫り」という技法だそうです。ミケランジェロの大作『最後の審判』はシスティーナ礼拝堂の天井（21ｍ）に書かれたフレスコ画ですが、この天井彫刻は頭の上、ほんの１ｍほどのところに展開するもので迫力が違います。プロの撮った写真でもこの圧倒的な迫力が伝わらないのが残念でならない。ぜひ自分の眼で確かめてみることをお勧めします。
これも開山堂の彫刻、道元禅師のエピソードの一つを表したもの。驚くのは実際に木を彫りこんだ造形の中に、絵画とは異なるユニークな遠近法が展開されていること。いったいどうやって彫ったのか見当もつきません。自分は決して美術史に詳しいわけではないですが、こうした技法はあまり見られないのでは。美術に詳しい方がいればぜひご教示いただきたく。
こちらは開山堂の表にある向拝の彫刻。
山門の前に二対の石碑も雲蝶の作品だそうです。
これは雲蝶のアーティストとしてでなく、職人としての“遊び心”。床の上の「小槌」の造形。古いお堂の床は年を経るにつれて木の節に穴が空いたりするため、その箇所を木材で隙間なく埋めるわけですが（埋め木細工）、そこにこのような“いたずら”を仕掛けています。注意深く床の上を見ていけば、他にも矢羽や花など様々な造形が仕組まれています。
石川雲蝶の作品の特徴は何と言っても、そのダイナミックで大胆な構図と、深く彫り込まれたパワフルな造形。そばでその作品を眺めると誰しもその迫力に圧倒されると思います。ところがこうした突出した才能を持った職人がつい最近までほぼ世間に忘れられていたこともまた事実。多くの作品を新潟県に残しながら彼の名前は長らく歴史の片隅に埋もれていました。ようやく1990年代に新潟県在住の写真家の方が彼の業績を再発掘し、地方紙や著作を通して世に問うたおかげで再び脚光を浴びるようになりました。とは言っても、全国的にはまだマイナーな存在。石川雲蝶の作品は一目見て驚かされるものばかりですが、それよりも彼の名前がほとんど忘れられていたことの方が強い驚きです。新潟にはまだまだこうした“隠れた観光コンテンツ”が隠されているように感じます。
永林寺（魚沼市根小屋）
関越自動車道堀之内ICから車で5分程度の永林寺も数多くの雲蝶作品が残るところ。こちらも内部の撮影は禁止なので、観光協会のHPから写真を拾わせてもらいます。
雪の中の永林寺。
力漲るような彫りと、ビビッドな彩色は先に見た雲蝶作品に共通したもの。言い伝えによると、当時の寺の住職と雲蝶が賭けをして、雲蝶が勝てば金品を受け取り、負ければこの寺の装飾を雲蝶が請け負うという条件で、結果として雲蝶が負けたことでこれらの作品が世に残ったと言われています。雲蝶と言うのはもちろん雅号で雲と蝶を並べたその名前からは、広大な空の下で漂白する魂のようなイメージがつきまといます。もともと彼が越後にやってきたのも、三条のお坊さんから言われた「良い鑿（のみ）と酒には終生困らない」との甘言から。彼がその後金持ちになったという話も残っていないし、越後の空の下を飄々と旅しながら各地に自分の才能の痕跡を残したまま世を去ったのかもしれません。
これは以前にもお見せした湯沢町中里地区の瑞祥庵仁王像。これも石川雲蝶作。蛍を観た帰りでしたので闇夜の中で少し怪しい形の映像になりました。
石川雲蝶の作品はこれ以外にも新潟県南部を中心に10か所以上で見ることができます。
Although it was peak season of ski, I gave up skiing early this morning due to heavy blizzard, and I decided to visit temples having works of Ishikawa Uncho (1814～1883). How many people know about him? He was a sculpture artisan who was born in Zoushigaya, Edo (former Tokyo) at last period of Edo era (1868 is Meiji Restoration and “Samurai government” was over). Ishikawa Uncho (real name: Ishikawa Yasubei) established his status as an artisan and he was invited to the Honjouji temple in Sanjo, Niigata, to restore temple house and he stayed in Niigata even after the restoration till he died. He left many works in Niigata area.
Saifukuji temple Kaizando house (Oura,Uonuma city)
The temple is 5 minute distance by car from Yamato Perking Area, Kanetsu highway.
This is the overall view of Kaizando house. As the place is known as heavy snow, the thatched roof house is protected by iron flame building. This scenery in heavy snow day remains in the heart.
From now on, I also quote pictures from Saifukuji temple and Tourist Information web sites as photo is prohibited in the temple.
Now this is the very remarkable work abruptly. It is “Dogen Zenshi mouko chobukuzu (Wild tiger cursing by Dogen Zen-master)”. This is not a picture but sculpture openwork from a big wood board. “Last Judgement” by Michelangelo was fresco painting on the ceiling of Cappella Sistina which is 21m high. This sculpture is only around 1m above your head and it looks so impressive. It is quite shame that just picture cannot contain the dynamic impression. I truly recommend to visit and see works by yourself.
This is also a sculpture in Kaizando house, an episode of Dogen Zen-master. Unique perspective in 3 dimension is nothing but amazing. I have totally no idea how he had carved this. I am not very keen on Art history but I don’t know this technique before him. Does anybody have an idea about this?
This is a sculpture of Kaizado Kohai (a roof built over the steps leading up to a temple building).
A pair of stone monuments in front of the gate is also work by Ishikawa Uncho.
This is the Kozuchi (gavel) on the floor, his sense of fun not as an artist, but as an artisan. Wood made floor often gets holes with wood knots coming off as time passing by. The artisan needs to fix those holes. This is one of tricks he made. If you watch whole floor, you find a lot of expressions like an arrow, or flowers.
The characteristics of Ishikawa Uncho are its dynamic and bold composition, and deep carved powerful modeling. You can’t help being overwhelmed by its power in air of his works. However the true wonder is the fact that this amazing artist had not known until recent times. In spite of a lot of impressive works, his fame had been buried in the corner of the history. A photographer in Niigata prefecture started excavation of his works in 90s and presented his presence in local papers and books. Thanks to his efforts, Ishikawa Uncho came into the spotlight again, but still minor presence in nationwide. I believe there might be many other such “hidden tourism contents” in Niigata.
Eirinji Temple (Negoya, Uonuma)
Eirinji temple is 5 minute distance by car from Horinouchi IC of Kanetsu highway and it is also known as many works by Ishikawa Uncho. This temple prohibits photograph, too. I extract pictures from Tourist Information web site.
Eirinji temple in snow.
Powerful carving and vivid coloring are common factors of works by Ishikawa Uncho. A legend says that Chief priest of the temple proposed a gamble to Ishikawa Uncho and if he wins he takes reward, and if he loses he has to restore whole temple. And he lost. As a result, he left many impressive works there. “Uncho” is off course his pseudonym which means “Cloud and Butterfly”. It reminds image of wandering freely under broad sky. He came to Echigo (former Niigata) with the word of Sanjo priest, “You will get good carving chisel and good Sake for whole life” in the beginning. I have not heard that he became wealthy. He might finished his life after wandering under the sky of Niigata to leave traces of his talent.
Except those temples, you can see Ishikawa Uncho’s works at more than 10 places, mainly in southern Niigata.